Why we recreated our entire body range

Most launches mean starting from scratch, as we’ve discovered a new active or we’re putting a stamp on an emerging trend, but not always. Our latest innovation – our Gentle Genius™ Barrier Care body collection – had a headstart, giving us the chance to upgrade some of our existing formulas while bringing a whole new system to the table that will transform your bodycare regimen. Because thanks to ever-evolving skincare technology, there is always room for improvement.

“This new collection brings together the very best of the old with the very best of the new,” says Sarah, our Founder. “We would never mess with an existing, well-loved formula unless we felt we were able to make it even (and exponentially) better and harder working for the skin.”

Our original body collection included a body wash, body cream and hand cream. Though they were popular, we knew they could do so much more for sensitive skin – to not only soothe irritation, but help to prevent it in the first place by strengthening the skin barrier. 

A new body line-up 

So we got to work on revamping the entire range – updating the line-up to include an innovative wet skin moisturizer too. Giving you a suite of breakthrough formulas to deeply hydrate both wet and dry skin while delivering crucial barrier support. 

“If you are someone who is prone to flare-ups like me, barrier support is the name of the game,” adds Sarah. “We also wanted the products to work better together as a system.  Especially our in-shower duo. If you’re lazy on the body moisturizing front, this is such a fast solution – and a powerhouse pairing that works like a hand in glove to maximize skin comfort, conditioning and all-day hydration.”

It’s not all brand new though. Long-term fans of Pai will recognize the collection’s name; the title of our original body wash, it was too apt not to use it for this Ceramide-powered, barrier-boosting range. 

“We loved the name Gentle Genius, as our all-natural formulas are true gentle giants proving skin-kind can still be skin-strong,” explains Sarah. “100% natural no longer means any compromise on performance. We’re using the most groundbreaking, highly-concentrated actives that even those with the most sensitive skin can use. And the innovation wrapped up in these formulations is world class thanks to our in-house team of green chemistry experts. So the name stuck.”

A biotechnology breakthrough 

Speaking of our experts, they had their work cut out for them.  “These formulas definitely presented challenges and required some innovative thinking,” admits John, Head of R&D. 

We knew we wanted to make sophisticated, face-grade formulations for the body, with active ingredients typically reserved for facial products. But the main goal was to focus on barrier care, which could only mean one thing: ceramides, the most effective actives for supporting a healthy skin barrier. And that turned out to be the first hurdle. 

“Traditionally, ceramides are synthesized in a lab, which isn't compliant with COSMOS standards for natural certification,” explains John. It was quite the search, but thankfully, biotechnology came to the rescue.

“We were thrilled to discover a unique, plant-derived ceramide blend produced through fermentation. Biotechnology has truly revolutionized the ‘natural’ beauty industry, opening doors to highly effective ingredients like these that were previously unavailable.”

The hunt was worth it for the benefits they bring. “The inclusion of a 100% naturally derived Ceramide Complex makes these products truly multi-dimensional from a skin performance perspective,” adds Sarah. “Providing not just calm and super-boosted hydration - but barrier building and strengthening benefits too, which are so important for the long term health and resilience of the skin.”

Reimagining sensitive bodycare

Ingredients locked down, the next step was nailing the new formulas – competing with our well-loved, existing collection, while making them even more effective.  

“With this range we embraced the very latest innovations in natural ingredients and green chemistry techniques to take our formulas to the next level,” explains Sarah. “All while retaining some of the existing ingredients, such as the meticulously sourced Calendula and Plum oils from the Polly Plum™ body cream, which have amazing anti-inflammatory and nourishing properties respectively.”

However, as with all skincare formulations, it’s not just about what you use, but how you use it. Because what really matters is that the products are a joy to use – a particularly tough task when it came to the body wash. 

“Our goal was to create a product with the look and feel of a cream, yet still capable of producing a good lather,” says John. “Creams require oils in their formulation, but oils are foam's enemy. This meant we had to carefully blend specific surfactants (the cleansing agents) to create the desired creamy emulsion while minimizing the impact on the product's foaming ability. We did a total of 29 formulation variations before approval.”

Across all of the products, we knew one thing was for sure – the scent was more important than ever. Bodycare is a sensorial experience, and too often for sensitive skin it becomes entirely functional and almost clinical in a bid to avoid reactions. We wanted to change that. But there are also few things more divisive; so personal, it would take a delicate balance to please everyone, while sticking to our core sensitive skin values. That’s why our chemists created our 100% natural KindScent™. 

“KindScent™ for me is the best of both worlds; a scent that is very much in the background but gives both a comforting and enjoyable experience,” muses Sarah. “The aroma is fresh and lifts my mood, but is super soft and gentle. It complements the product and never overshadows it.”

Our experts carefully concocted our signature aroma, blending microdoses of oils with no or low allergens – and the formula was then dermatologist approved for peace of mind. “Good fragrance should be discernible but elegant, and never hit you over the head or be headache-inducingly strong,” continues Sarah. 

“Having no declarable allergens brings a lot of reassurance - and promises that there aren’t needless irritants in the formula and it’s been considerately formulated."

Sealed with a twist 

You’ll notice our new range has an all-new look and feel, too. Head of NPD Danielle sourced these modern bottles and tubes – which open and close with a satisfying twist-and-click to make your bodycare regimen hassle-free. They’re also another step forward for sustainability. Made with 50% PCR content, they’re 100% curbside recyclable, and there’s no outer carton so we’re using less packaging than before. 

All of this magic happens on-site at our in-house London lab – where the production team also had to test and learn to get it right. “We were developing four new formulas, each with unique ingredients and innovative packaging, requiring us to find the most efficient manufacturing processes,” says Production Manager Kasia. 

“Close collaboration with the R&D team was essential, allowing us to identify potential risks, choose the best production methods, and prepare backup plans for any unexpected challenges. Thanks to this strategic approach, we successfully finalized the processes within just one or two trials.”

Then it was time to launch – and that’s no mean feat when it’s four at once, with the team producing over 3.5 tons of product just to meet the initial launch demand. Challenging? Yes. Worth it? Absolutely. 

Shop our new Ceramide bodycare for sensitive skin here